I remember the discussions of the people all over the country, sometime in 1985 or 1986, when former president Saddam Hussein ordered under the slogan: „From Nebuchadnezzar to Saddam Hussein, Babylon is rising again“ to rebuild Babylon. The arguments went from: „He is ruining our history.“ to „Building over the ancient walls is the best way to save them for the future.“
Well, no one asked us anyway and since most of the original Babylonian monuments were standing in museums all over the world, Babylon was for normal people (I mean not archeologists) a sight with more holes than ruins. So when the city was restored, one was able to get a feeling of how mighty Babylon must have been thousands of years ago. Moreover it offered a wonderful scene for an international festival, like the ones we knew from Verona in Italy and Jerash in Jordan.
This festival was the biggest cultural event in Iraq. Artistic groups, singers and musicians from different nationalities were invited to show their acts on one of three historic theatres in the ancient city.
Since the festival started in 1987, we used to go to see at least two shows every year. We saw Italian Operas, like: Le nozze di Figaro, la traviata and Il barbiere di Siviglia, breathtaking Russian ballet: the 12th night and 1001 nights as well as colorful and loud Spanish flamenco group shows. In 1992 we even had the chance to attend Kazem Al-Saher’s concert, who was and still is the most popular Iraqi and Arab singer.
We never had the chance to see the opening nor the closing ceremony because the tickets were only for invited guests. That’s why I was very excited when our Austrian friend, gave us four invitations for the closing ceremony because she and her group had to go back to Austria earlier than expected.
Although our car was in service and there was no one else who could take us, my mother, my two friends and I decided to go. The friend who gave us the tickets said that she had read on the leaflet they handed her out, that there were shuttle busses taking the foreign guests from the Al-Mansour Melia hotel to Babylon.
As we arrived at Al-Mansour Melia hotel on the morning of the closing ceremony, the lobby was full with people from all nations, the hotel staff and security staff.
We asked at the reception for the shuttle bus going to Babylon and it seemed to be a big puzzle. The receptionist went to ask another lady at the reception and then she went to the back office and came out in the company of a young man, who asked my mother what exactly she meant by a shuttle bus and who gave her this information. At last we ended up at a desk of a security officer, who had a badge with the text: „In charge of the delegations“ on it. The lady who took us to him, told him: „this foreign lady and her three daughters want to take a bus to Babylon. They have invitations for today’s evening show.“
The man looked at us with a big smile and said: „Who told you that we have busses going to Babylon?“ My mother explained to him how we got the tickets and who told us about the bus. „Well“ he said „We have busses for the delegations but not for locals. Each bus is dedicated to a group and has a translator and a security office on board. You cannot go with them.“
When he ended the last sentence, he saw our disappointed faces and I think he felt sorry for us. So he added: „but I’ll arrange for you to go with the bus of the Iraqi TV staff.“ He called one of the security men standing close by and talked to him. We thanked him and followed the man, he just instructed, to the bus. He told the driver: „Take the foreign lady and her three daughters with you.“ We accepted that they thought we were sisters and didn’t bother to explain.
At last we were on the bus in the parking of the hotel. The bus was almost empty but slowly it got filled with the TV staff. Cameramen, sound technicians and 2 TV-hosts we knew from the daily news.
While we were waiting in the Bus, something wonderful and unexpected happened. A Silver Mercedes drove into the parking, stopped near the bus and out came Kazem Al-Saher. It was him! the most popular Arab singer, standing just a few meters from us. My friends and I ran out of the bus saying to each other: „It’s Kazem! it’s really him!“ I don’t know which one of us had the paper and the pen in her bag but we went to him and shook his hand. We introduced ourselves and asked him for an autograph. He was very nice and welcoming and wrote a personal autograph for each one of us. Years later I was silly enough to give my very personal autograph to a relative of mine. She was crazy about Kazem Al-Saher, but today I really regret it.
Full with joy, we got back on the bus and waited for it to move. Shortly before the bus started, a man we saw in the lobby before, jumped in and sat near the driver.
We had a good time on the bus. We laughed a lot and enjoyed listening to the stories of the TV staff.
One of the TV hosts was saying to the man sitting near him: „The singer who sang yesterday in Babylon was very stupid“
The other one asked: „Why? I like Basim.“
„I like his songs too, but he was on the stage and told the people: „I’ll sing a new song.“ and when the music started and the people began clapping he said: „sing, sing.“ holding the microphone to the audience. How can they sing if the song was a new song?“ they burst into laughter.
Listening to such stories, the hour and fifteen minutes we needed to arrive to Babylon went by very fast.
We reached the parking of the city. We memorized the place of the bus so we can find it when we got back and started our way to the arena.
The sun was still shining on the ancient city. There was one color dominating the scene. Except for the turquoise replica of the Ishtar Gate and some palm trees, everything had the color of the yellow sand. The ground, the buildings and even the pale blue sky was covered by a sand veil.
After the security check we entered the big theater. I couldn’t see anyone from the people who were with us on the bus, except that man who came in shortly before we left. He sat a few rows behind us.
When it got dark the show finally started. First we had to listen to some speeches of the minister of culture and information, the organizer of the festival and some personalities I don’t remember anymore. After that boring part, the final show finally began. It was a colorful fashion show by the Iraqi house of fashion. The show took us through the history of Iraq and Iraqi fashion. It started with the imaginative wedding of the Tigris and the Euphrates and moved through ages. The stage was full of lovely men and female models in stunning, colorful costumes. Joined by the sound of two speakers, a man and a woman, who told the story in Arabic and in English with music, light and sound effects.
The whole arena, holding thousands of people, was silent; everyone was caught up in the magical world on the stage and then, suddenly, when the show reached the Akkadian Empire, something exploded on the stage. We heard a loud blast that almost damaged our ears, some pieces went through the air and the smell of gunpowder and a dark smoke cloud filled the arena.
When the cloud was almost gone, we were able to see again. We saw that there was a hole in the middle of the stage. The artists were gone, the minister was standing surrounded by security and bodyguards and an incredible number of security officers were standing all over the theater, as if they came out of the ground. No one made a sound; only the security officers were moving and talking. Then fifteen minutes later the minister sat down again and the security officers started to disappear. The music started again and four men models came out carrying a big white piece of cloth, with which they covered the hole in the stage and the show went on. Nothing reminded of the explosion, except that the models had to change the path and walk on the side of the stage instead of the middle to avoid falling into the hole.
It wasn’t till the next day that we got to know what happened. It was a problem with the pyrotechnics effects, and sadly one of the pyrotechnicians lost his arm while we were enjoying the show.
The show reached the end with the fashion of the current time, a big firework and a song in praise of Iraq and the government.
It was almost eleven thirty when we left the arena. The show was very nice but the explosion left a bad feeling that we couldn’t ignore. We went to the parking to take our bus but when we tried to get in, the driver told us: „sorry, you can’t come back with me. I’m taking the Russian delegation back.“
My mother told him: „This must be a joke. You can’t leave us here! How are we going to go back?“
The driver made it clear that it was our problem and it didn’t concern him. He just added: „I’m not allowed to take anyone except the Russians.“
The bus left and we were standing in the parking like a herd of lost sheep. We didn’t have a plan. Suddenly the man who was with us on the bus, the last one that joined us, came and said: „Oh good, I found you. I was looking for you. I lost you when you left the theater. Follow me.“
We were really happy to see a familiar face and we had no better option than to follow him. He took us to an old bus and asked us to get on it. He sat in the front and we took the empty places in the middle. Most of the people on the bus were young men but there were also two women with maybe two or three children, who were sleeping. I still don’t know if they were in Babylon to watch the show or if they were employees who worked for the festival. When we reached Baghdad, the man came back to us and asked my mother about our address. He went to the driver and talked to him and then came back to us again and said: „The driver will take you to your house.“ Then he smiled and said: „You know you gave me a hard time today. At the hotel my boss told me ‘Keep your eyes on the foreign lady and her three daughters and don’t leave them unless you are sure they get home safe.’ He worried about you. I’m so happy my duty is over. This morning I didn’t think I’ll be spending my day in Babylon watching the closing ceremony. I wish you a good night.“
We were surprised, touched and grateful that this man spent most of his day looking after us and at the end even saved us from a very bad situation. We thanked him a lot and left the bus.
The next day I wrote down all what happened on that special day because I didn’t want to forget anything. It was the first, and I’m sure, last time in my life that I had an almost personal security guard.